Category: Getting Started, Common Problems ¤
  Author: Lana Mitchell ¤
   Title: Recipe for a Non-Pulling Dog ¤

Elizabeth (Naime) wrote:

>>>> Are you saying that nobody on this list is or recommends using
aversives to teach walking on the lead?  I thought this "Koehler" thing
started with a couple people recommending Koehler's long linepre-training
or a modified "shooting gallery" version, which uses pretty strong
aversives.  And I had been sure that milder aversives were being used for
"walk on a loose lead" in some cases.  Did everyone recant while I wasn't
looking?>>>>

Elizabeth,

I'll come clean and say that I use an aversive when teaching a puller to
walk on a loose leash -- not a puppy just learning, but a bonafied puller.
In fact the Husky I used to demonstrate this method at the Tukwila seminar
regularly pulled his owner off her feet to get to food, people, and other
dogs. After about 7 clicks he heeled with attention right up to the target.
The target was me - lying on the floor with food, verbally and visually
tempting the dog to pull right on over and get it .

I came up with this method after watching people pull dogs back to them
then allow the dogs to go to the end of the leash, then pull them back and
allow them to go to the end of the leash, again and again. These dogs were
happy to do it, demonstrating that they had no idea they were not gaining
ground! Each stopped only after a harsher aversive was issued. I think
dogs, being creatures who were bred to serve man, do what is expected if
they know what is expected but their lack of generalization ability means
that each lesson must be simplified to a level they can readily understand
- it must include a picture for them to refer to.

That said, here's my recipe for creating a non-pulling dog.
Find a starting line behind which the dog and trainer will begin their walk
- chalk, sidewalk crack, parking space paint.  Place a favorite toy, a pile
of food, or a human offering food, about 20' away. This is the target, what
the dog will pull toward. A target is often a way for the trainer to
measure success and I strongly recommend it. It also keeps the dog somewhat
focused so that learning can occur. The dog is on a 2' to 3' leash. Give a
verbal, telling the dog the game has begun. I use, "Let's  go."  Walk until
the dog pulls - usually two steps.  Go into reverse, backing from where the
dog pulled until both dog and trainer are again behind the line. Do not add
a leash pop and do not turn your back on the dog. It is important for the
dog to SEE the trainer's face while he is NOT going where he wanted to go.
NOTE:  The aversive is not pulling the dog -- he's the one who chose to
pull -- but the obvious return to the starting place. Wait behind the line
being a sort of tree until the dog is not pulling, sniffing, jumping up,
etc. (most dogs will begin to sit here or get into a position at the side
facing the same direction as the trainer - a sort of heel position). Repeat
this until the dog can go that distance without pulling - usually the
fourth time.

When the dog can walk about 4 steps without pulling add the R+ as follows:
the target clicks the dog for not pulling toward him, the trainer stops and
feeds, then backs behind the starting line. If not using human target,
trainer clicks. When the dog is not pulling, sniffing, or jumping up, the
trainer again starts the walk. The human target may become more aggressive
with distractions. Repeat until the dog walks all the way to the target
without pulling - usually fewer than 10 clicks, often with total attention
on trainer/handler. Dog NEVER receives the food or toy  the target is
offering. If desired, the target may hand these items to the trainer who
may then give them to the dog.

Now take it "on the road" using anything as a target and execute in the
following manner: whenever the dog pulls, stop and back one or two steps.
Most dogs will begin to hop into something like heel position to get the
trainer to resume walking. If the distraction is really tempting, back a
longer distance or until the dog is trying to get into a walking position
then resume forward motion.

I don't use any verbal with this other than the "Let's go" command at the
beginning of every walk across the line, which is always started with the
dog not pulling and later, with the dog paying attention to the trainer.

Lana Mitchell