Category: Getting Started ¤ Author: Dani Weinberg ¤ Title: When To Add The Cue ¤ Lauren, you write: >I feel uncomfortable asking newbie questions without having read any books >on the subject yet, but I do have one: what is the time to start giving >voice commands? Do I command and then click/treat for good behavior, or is >there more of a "get to know" process for the dogs that I could be working >on till I can order books, etc.? The time to introduce a cue is when you are satisfied with the quality of the behavior and your dog is offering the behavior predictably. That tells you that s/he understands it and knows at least one way to get you to c/t. Example: if you've been reinforcing sits, observe what happens when you first get your clicker and treats out. Does your dog immediately offer a sit? Does s/he repeat it after each c/t? If so, then it's probably OK to add the cue. And, if you've somehow added the cue prematurely, you can always back off and stop using it again until you're more convinced that your dog is ready for it. It's not a big deal! Try thinking of these things as "cues" rather than "commands." What's the difference? Well, a cue is simply a signal that tells your dog which behavior will get reinforced. ("Command" comes out of a very different philosophy of training. We don't command our dogs. We offer them opportunities for reinforcement.) Another thing to consider: you'll need to be more specific than "good behavior" to become a good clicker trainer. You must be able to give your dog very accurate and precise information about what s/he is doing right. "Good" is a pretty broad term! Here's the sequence for adding a cue (let's imagine you're teaching "Sit"): 1) You say "Sit" 2) Dog sits. 3) At the instant your dog's rearend hits the floor, you click and then treat. IOW, you're doing exactly what you did before but, this time, signalling the dog's behavior. If you've been using other - maybe visual - cues (such as hand movements or food lures), then you'll do step 1 (saying "Sit") just before the other cue you've been using - IOW, preceding the known cue with the new one that you're teaching. While you're waiting for your books to arrive, you might also try teaching some simple tricks, or just training spontaneous behaviors that your dog offers (like lip-licking, ear-twitching, head-turning, paw-lifting, etc.). This will help both you and your dog to learn how to play the clicker game. Remember: no cues till you've got the behavior exactly where you want it. Instead, concentrate on really observing what your dog is offering so that you can c/t precisely the behavior you want to teach. Dani Dani Dani Weinberg Albuquerque, NM and Crested Butte, CO